They say if you don't like the weather in the Azores, just wait fifteen minutes. Today, I decided to chase the sun on the south side of São Miguel, embarking on the PRC44 SMI (Pico do Praia) circular trail.

Finding the Path

Located just above the town of Água de Alto, the trailhead is a bit of a hidden gem. There isn’t a formal parking lot or visitor center, so it feels like a true local secret. The path begins on a modest paved road before transitioning into a rugged dirt track that climbs the hillside, intersecting with the larger trails that lead up toward the famous Lagoa do Fogo.

Ruins and Ridges

One of the most fascinating discoveries along the way was passing the site of the old linen manufacturing factory. It is currently being transformed into a luxury retreat called Fogo Lodge. Perched high on the hill, it offers a breathtaking, bird’s-eye view of the iconic Islet of Vila Franca do Campo.

As I climbed higher, the scenery shifted beautifully:

The Flora: I found myself walking through dense groves of towering Japanese Cedar trees (Cryptomeria japonica), which create a peaceful, cathedral-like atmosphere.

The Water: A small, refreshing waterfall cuts right across the hiking path, and I eventually reached the spillway for the Central Nova hydropower plant—a cool nod to the island's industrial history.

Into the Mist

The Azores are famous for their microclimates. By the time I reached the deep valleys, the morning sun had vanished, replaced by a thick, ethereal "cloud mist." In the fog, I missed a marker and found myself crossing a bridge over the EN1-1A freeway.

I realized then that I’d wandered onto PR41 SMI, heading toward the village of Ribeira Chã. What was supposed to be a 2.5-hour loop was quickly turning into an afternoon expedition!

A Happy Ending at the Beach

By noon, hunger set in. Since Ribeira Chã was quiet, I followed the path down toward the coast at Praia de Água de Alto. My "wrong turn" ended up being a blessing when I arrived at Bar Praia de Água do Alto.

There’s nothing quite like a fresh salmon salad lunch with your toes almost in the sand to recover from an accidental detour. After refuelling, I walked through the town of Água de Alto and finally made it back to my starting point.

Total Trail Time: 4 hours (instead of 2.5!)

The Lesson: Always bring a snack, keep an eye on the trail markers when the mist rolls in, and remember that sometimes the best views are the ones you didn't plan to see.