Hidden Treasures of Ribeira Grande: From Sacred Art to Pirate Capes

Ribeira Grande is home to four distinct museums, and my quest to see them all is nearly complete! After visiting the Emigration and Franciscan museums, I spotted a flyer on Facebook for Presépios (Nativity scenes)—a perfect follow-up to my last post.

My first stop was the Museu Casa do Arcano (House of the Arcane). While I enjoyed a lovely temporary exhibit of ocean wave paintings, the “crown jewel” here is a massive cabinet containing 92 religious scenes. This was the life’s work of Mother Margarida Isabel of the Apocalypse, who hand-molded an incredible 3,900 tiny figures into intricate biblical dioramas. The dedication required for such a feat is staggering.

Next, I headed to the Museu Municipal. This space is much larger, with themed rooms dedicated to printing, pharmacy, wine, and ceramics. However, the showstopper is the mechanical miniature of Ribeira Grande. Built by Priest Evaristo Carreiro Gouveia between 1920 and 1957, this moving display spans two entire rooms. You really have to see the videos to believe the craftsmanship!

The Pirate Connection:  The highlight for me was seeing a traditional Capote e Capelo—the iconic Azorean woman’s cloak with an oversized hood. I’ve seen them in history books, but never in person. This version was crafted from heavy black wool in two separate pieces. As someone who makes cloaks for my Pirate Fashions business, I was fascinated by the extra large hood. It’s a beautiful piece of textile history that feels right at home in a pirate’s world.

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Anthony “Tiger” Liu is an American expat and the operator of Golden Mermaid Villa and Longevity Habit retreat, where he shares a passion for the vibrant culture and nourishing lifestyle of São Miguel.